IT WORKS!

Yesterday I've taken pictures with my Agfa-Clack-Pinhole.
"So what?", do you think.
Oh, I've take the pic with an exposure-time of 1/30 with the 0.2 mm Pinhole.
"So that!"
Ok, it was a sunny day, I've used a Ilford 3'200 ASA - b/w-film and developed it in DD-X for 22 min / 24°C. So the film was pushed to more then 12'500 ASA (17 min / 20 °C).

The School across from my studio. Sunny day, 1/30, f 270.

Same situation, but extremly shadows in this "selfie". Sunshine from above, rest in the shadow.

The same scan, a little bit digital "remastered"..

Pinhole with AGFA CLACK

This idea is from YouTube: a Agfa Clack should be the best kamera to transfer into a pinhole-camera.
Just at the day, I've got a Clack, I've found my 0.3 mm drill inbetween other "camera-making-stuff".
So I started:

Dremel with the 0.3 mm drill.

A little bit closer.

After drilling into an old offset-plate, I attached the pinhole to the Clack.
Adittional I removed the F-Stop and Close-up-construction.

Clack with Pinhole + wire-release.

Clack-Pinhole with the new cover ;-)

Of course, I was very unpatient, to test this new, down-sized camera.

The test with 40 sec. exposure time, with a working laser-engraver in the background.

In the test-pic, you can see, the lots of grayscales the 6 x 9 cm-negative includes.
I've taken it with an Ilford-Delta, pushed to 800 ASA.
The good quality of the pic is, because the negativ-base of inside the camera is curved.
Additional the viewfinder is very helpfull: it shows about 75 % of the view. The original lens has 95 mm, the pinhole ca. 80 mm.
The negative is scanned with an Epson V800, an enlarging on analog photo-papier could be better...

Thanx 4 watching, have a healthy day
-ekk-

Kodak Vest Pocket

Kodak Vest Pocket

Yes,... this camera is 40 years older, then I am...
It is very nice, but we should not forget, that this is a "soldier-camera" from the 1st world-war.
I really cannot imagine, how men in such situation are able to put a film into the camera...
I had some problems with that and so, there was a light-leake on the first some pictures.
Nevertheless, some photos are well,... only on the top are some tracks, bad developing ?-(
The reason can be the circumstances of the developing-tank. It was the first time since 50 years, I need to pull the film. Usually I rotate the film-tank.
In the film (RERA 400) I found some pinholes... I hope this came from the brandnew developin-tank, not from the emulsion of the RERA...

left: 135er, rigkt: RERA 400 127er roll.

I think, now it is time to take a peek to one photo, made with the Vest Pocket:

Scan from a 4 by 6.5 cm negative of the Vest Pocket

At the end, a word about the costs: the film costs nearly the double prize of a 120er roll-film.
There are some tipps to cut a 120er roll into 127er roll, findable in the web.
I think about, to buy one of the new Ilford-Ortho-120er-rolls, to test this in the darkroom with red light. The ortho-film has no red-sensitive, so it is not good for people-photography, but good to use for architecture and landsscape.

It would be nice, if you drop some lines about your experiances with a Vest Pocket and, or 127er Films.

stay healthy
-ekk-

Make Frames of Standard 8 & Super 8 Digital!

In connection with the Piccolo-Booklet Nr. 7 (last Post), I need to digitalize some pics from old Standard 8 / Super 8 movies.
At first I tried it with my expensive Epson-Perfection V800-Photo - Flatbed-Scanner...
I used 2400 dpi, the "real" physical solution. ...and was disappointed, but used the results.

Later I remembered an old trick, I used in analog times: putting the SLR under the Photo-Enlarger und beam the pic directly in the camera (without Objective, of course ;-)

So I tried this with my DSLR (Nikon D 5200).
For this you (your camera) needs:
• LiveView
• a turnable monitor
• Cable-Release / Self-Timer
If available:
• Camera HDR
This time I made it "quick&dirty": lay the camera-body on a block of wood, put the movie-strip into the negative-stage above. Turned off the room-light (is necessary to avoid side-light).

The yellow light-beam is a symbolic addition.

Below the both "scans". I've used only a part of the 24 MPix of the Nikon, 'cause I don'd need more for the print. If you use the whole chip, your 8mm pic becomes 24 MPix!

"Scanned"with Nikon D5200

Scanned with the Epson-Perfection

Piccolo Heft 7: Meine ersten 10 Kameras / My 1st Ten Cameras

Here are the Links from this Piccolo Booklet:

MENSCHEN und ORTE / People and Places

• auch Forum für Fotografen/Modelle > model-kartei.de

• mehr zum "Hipetuk"

• Franz Belting

• "DADhAnova", doch noch ein Filmdokument entdeckt

• "Schwarzer Engel"/SG, Schweiz

• „Hohen Weg“, Hildesheim

• Azriel Knight, Challenge 30 Days, 30 Kameras...

• Paketadresse für SchweizerIn in Deutschland/Konstanz, Infoblatt hier

KAMERAS / Cameras

• Agfa Box

• Retina Ia

• Praktica Nova

• Camex Reflex 8

• Vitessa

• Beirette

• Exa 1a

• Reflekta II

• Minolta SRT 101

• Miranda Sensomat

PICCOLO-HEFTE kaufen (St.Gallen)

• Verlag Ekkehard Lory 

• Anita Sonnabend, BasarBizarr

• Bobby Moor, XaoxArt 

Next Step to 4x5"

Never I forgot the brand-name "Linhof". My teacher of photography (Umbau) talked about this professional cameras. We, his students, had to work with the "poor" Plaubel.
Now "Linhof" becomes reality for my.
As usually I combined a special version of the Linhof Technika V:

4x5" Linhof Technika V with Metz CT-45 Flash and ergonomic Handle

...a very nice combination of about 4,2 kg ;-)
The first photo I shot, was a "Lomo-Selfie", means, I didn't look though the view-finder.
I need to turn the camera 90°, so the camera-bank did not cover a part of the view.

Lomo-Selfie with the Technika

Next you'll find more about here in my blog...
-ekk-

Cup-Lens, Modelpics

Finally I could take some photos from a friend, and a special model ;-)

18W Daylight, 1m distance, 80 Sec. exposure-time.

18w Daylight, 1m distance + av. Light trough the open door, 25 sec.

All photos are taken with a 9 x 12 cm Calumet on Multigrade Photo-Paper.

Negative scanned, reversed in positive and colored in Photoshop.